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When is "The Season"?
Should I hike north or south?
Is a Wilderness Permit required?
Can I cook on a fire?
How can I resupply?
Where can I get trail conditions
info?
Do I need to worry about wild animals?
When Is "The Season?"
Generally July to September, but it varies from year to year,
depending on the previous winter's snowfall.
Most years one can plan a trip beginning the first week in
July, and only hike on snow near the tops of the passes. The
first snow usually doesn't hit until the end of October, but
the days are getting short and cold by then.
In 1995 and 1997, there was an unusually heavy snow, the
trail was covered in snow well into August. You can use the
California Snow Survey
Page to check on the snow depth along the trail. These
reports are provided by large "pillows" that weigh
the snow in several places in the California mountains, and
relay the data via satellite hourly. They also provide temperature
data. Some of the pillows that are near the trail are: Upper
Tyndall Creek, Charlotte Lake, Bishop Pass, and Gem Lake.
Should I hike north or south?
Most folks hike north from Mt Whitney to Yosemite Valley.
The author of this page has hiked both ways, and he suggests
you consider hiking southbound. The terrain near Yosemite
is less strenuous, and is lower, so the first part of the
trip is easier, and gives you more time to get used to the
altitude. Some hikers suffer from mild altitude sickness if
they go from sea level to the higher elevations of Mt Whitney
(14000+ft.) immediately. In addition the climb out of Yosemite
Valley to Tuolumne Meadows is steep, but not nearly as bad
as the climb from Whitney Portal to Trail Crest! However,
north-bounders have the advantage of finishing the trip 4000
ft. lower than they started.
Is a Wilderness Permit required?
Because of ongoing budget restrictions, the USFS and the NPS
have hired contractors to issue wilderness permits. The procedures
have changed significantly.
Wilderness permits are required to spend the night along
the trail, and for ANY entry into the Mt Whitney zone, even
for day trips. Permits are free in person and there is a small
fee charged for reservations (see below). There are a limited
number issued each day, to prevent overcrowding. In addition,
a special stamp on your permit is required for ANY visit to
Mt Whitney, even day trips. "The Mt Whitney zone"
is from Lone Pine Lake 2.5 miles west of Whitney Portal on
the east, to Timberline Lake near Crabtree Meadows on the
west.
Getting a permit at the Yosemite end:
The Yosemite Association
(a non profit organization that has been helping YNP for
years) has taken over issuing permits in Yosemite. Half
of all permits can be reserved ahead of time via mail or
phone, and the remainder (at least half) will be issued
on a walk up basis. Permits will be issued to you no earlier
than the day before your trip. The hours of operation of
the permit office in Yosemite Valley are 9am-5pm.
Permits may be reserved by mail or telephone up to 24 weeks
(to the day) or as late as 2 days (if any are left) before
the date of your departure. The fee for reserving a permit
is US$3 for each person listed on the permit, checks and
credit cards are accepted. The maximum size of your group
is 15, for hiking on the trail.
The YPA has a web
site with information about wilderness permits.
Getting a permit at the Mt Whitney end:
All quota trails on the Inyo National Forest are 100% reservable.
Reservations
will be accepted from six months to the day ahead of
time until two days before entry on the trail. Any unreserved
permits will be available starting the day before entry
at the ranger station. Permits for non-quota trails will
also be reservable. The fee for reserving a permit is $15.
Mt. Whitney hikers will need a special stamp on their permit
to enter the Mt. Whitney Zone no matter what their entry
trail is. The zone boundaries are: to the east, just above
Lone Pine Lake; to the west, just above Crabtree Ranger
Station; and to the north, the Sequoia N.P./Inyo N.F. boundary.
Day hikers will also need a permit to enter the zone. Mt.
Whitney Reservations start on Feburary 15.
For additional information see:
Yosemite
Wilderness Permits
Can I Cook on a Fire?
There are fire limitations in the National Parks and Wilderness
areas. These limitations are usually based on elevation. In
Yosemite, fires are prohibited above 9600ft, in Kings Canyon
National Park, and the John Muir/Ansel Adams wilderness areas
10,000ft, and 11,200ft in Sequoia National Park. In addition
there are several heavy use areas where fires are also prohibited.
It is encouraged that hikers use stoves to cook.
How Can I Resupply?
There are three places to resupply on the trail: Tuolumne
Meadows, Red's Meadow, and the Muir
Trail Ranch. The Vermilion
Valley Resort will also hold packages, and is only one
mile and a short ferry ride off the trail.
You can mail a resupply package to the post office in Tuolumne
Meadows. There is also a surprisingly well-stocked store there
as well as a snack bar. This is only 24 miles from the north
terminus in Yosemite Valley.
Red's Meadow will pick up your package from the Mammoth Post Office and bring it back to their store for a fee. Click here for more details. This is
57 miles south of Yosemite Valley. There is also a shuttle
from Red's Meadow to the Mammoth Mountain Resort. From here
it is an easy hitchhike down to Mammoth Lakes, with restaurants,
backpacking stores, and supermarkets.
The Muir Trail Ranch
will accept and hold resupply packages for a rather large
fee. ($45 this year). The Ranch was featured in National Geographic
in April 1989. They have white gas available for sale at the
ranch, and they will dispose of your trash in your empty cache
containter. They can mail letters for you. Meals, baths, etc.
are only available to their registered guests (groups) on
a week-long basis by reservation. They have rather detailed
instructions on how to package and ship your stuff. This
is about the halfway point (it is near Blaney Meadows). There
are no more on-trail resupply points between here and the
southern terminus.
The Vermilion Valley
Resort will also hold packages, Their ferry boat dock
on Lake Thomas Edison is only 1 mile from the trail and the
ride is 15 minutes. They are attempting to cater to the John
Muir Trail, and PCT Hiker, and offer a free night in a tent
cabin with a soft bed and the first beverage is on the house.
Their resupply fee is now $6.00 with no daily charge.
Where can I get trail condition
info?
One hundred and seventy-five of the 211 miles of the JMT lie
on the same route as the 2,665-mile Pacific Crest Trail. The
two ends -- from Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows, and
Crabtree Meadows to Mt Whitney are different. Because most
of the JMT lies within the bounds of the PCT, the Pacific
Crest Trail Condition Reports is a good place to get
information about the JMT.
The PCTA solicits input from hikers on trail conditions,
and can usually give you the current trail conditions, especially
early in the season: northbound PCT through hikers must pass
over the JMT in late June if they want to complete the whole
2600 mile PCT in one season.
Do I need to worry about wild
animals?
The California Black Bear can be a problem along the whole
John Muir Trail.
Park bears who caused problems by raiding trashcans and campsites
in the developed areas of the parks were relocated to the
backcountry. They taught their bear-buddies that campers carry
good tasting food. If you don't want a bear eating your precious
freeze dried food (bears like toothpaste and other scented
toiletries too!), you will need to store it properly at night.
For information and important links regarding how to properly
store your food to protect it from bears along the PCT, visit
the PCTA's
Bears page.
Lyell canyon (between Tuolumne Meadows and Donahue Pass)
has an especially bad bear problem. Avoid camping in this
11-mile section of the trail if you want to keep your food.
A large rodent, called a Marmot, that lives along the trail
can also be a problem. Marmots will eat anything and may chew
through your pack if you leave it unattended. This is especially
a problem where hikers leave their packs at Trail Crest, for
the short hike up to the summit of Mt Whitney.
The Mountain Lion (also called the Puma, and the Cougar)
also inhabits the area of the JMT. These elusive creatures
are not generally a problem, and you should feel fortunate
if you see one. If you DO come across a big cat, don't run
from it! Cats like to chase things that are running. Learn
more at "Living With California Mountain Lions."
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