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In 1995, when I thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail, I used the
typical resupply strategy of frequent (about 20-25) mailed
food parcels. I became increasingly fed up with the limitations
of this method, the cost of postage, the wrong assumptions
I made in planning, the food I could no longer stand, etc.
By the second half of the AT, I was telling my support person
to stop sending me maildrops and I was buying my food as I
went. This method worked well for me.
In 1998, while planning for my PCT thru-hike, my partner,
Jenelle and I decided not to use mailed food parcels, except
in a few places, and those we would mail ourselves from the
trail. This method worked well for us.
This document was written to give potential thru-hikers some
ideas about alternatives to relying on mailed food resupplying
during their hikes. Historically, mailing food drops has been
the preferred method. But more and more, thru-hikers are interested
in relying less on that approach. Here is why:
Concerns
First, mailing food is expensive, often more expensive than
the food itself. If you live on the east coast or even the
mid-west, you will not get a break on the postage by sending
your packages parcel post. Parcel post rates are based weight
and on the number of zones between where youre mailing
from and where youre mailing to. If you cross enough
zones (there are 8, I think, in the continental U.S.) you
will save only a nickel (yes, 5 cents) by going parcel post
versus 1st class (priority mail same thing).
A 15 lb. box of food mailed cross-country 1st class
will cost around $20. You will have to save a lot of money
on your shopping to make up for all the postage costs.
Second, your preferences might change. I suspect its
happened to every thru-hiker (well, except maybe a few): you
can no longer stand something in your maildrops, but guess
what? youve got five of them in every box for the next
2,000 miles! So youre forced to either eat something
you cant stand or waste it or try to pawn it off on
someone else (its probably the same thing theyre
sick of anyway, so this wont work).
Third, (and this can go both ways) preparing all those maildrops
in advance is a huge undertaking. Some folks relish all the
planning, shopping, repackaging, etc. Some folks are into
pain, too.
Fourth, it is a somewhat more difficult proposition to rearrange
your itinerary if youre having food mailed to you. What
if you decide to flip-flop? What if you decide to skip around
the Sierras and return to them later? What if youre
going faster or slower than you expected?
Fifth, you will probably make some poor assumptions during
the planning phase and end up with too much or too little
or the wrong kinds of food. In these cases, you will either
have to dispose of food or purchase supplemental food. Plus,
you will probably purchase some food in most places where
its available. Youll buy some donuts, a bag of
chips, etc. So, youre already in a store, carrying a
basket or pushing a cart: why not just resupply there?
Sixth, thru-hikers are often criticized (probably unfairly)
for not really contributing anything to local economies along
the trail. Locals see us getting huge boxes of food at the
post office instead of buying it at their establishments.
This may seem trivial, but I believe that thru-hikers will
be better accepted if they are thought to make a positive
economic contribution to the community. I feel that anything
we can do to encourage friendly relations and "good vibes"
in trail communities is worthwhile.
Finally, what if you are forced to leave the trail. No one
likes to think about it, but the success rate on the PCT is,
at best in a good year, 50%. Half the hikers who spend weeks
or months preparing maildrops end up with a lot of (hiking)
food to dispense with.
Caveats (read these before proceeding!)
Diet We are not picky eaters and don't insist on
variety. We want fuel and we want it now. We don't put much
faith in miracle foods like corn pasta. We supplement our
diet heavily during town stops. We tend to eat the same few
things and are happy with them. We like dinners that cook
quickly and require just one pot. If this sounds like you,
you may be well-suited to a shop-as-you-go resupply plan.
If this sounds horrible, don't waste your time reading the
rest of this. Here are a few examples to give you an idea
of our menu:
Breakfast A variety of cold cereals with powdered
milk. We ate this every day for breakfast. Fast (don't need
to mess with a stove in the morning), doesn't use fuel or
require much water and theres hardly any clean-up.
We ate everything from granola (low-volume) to Grape-Nuts
(yummy with raisins and walnuts) to Captain Crunch (very
bulky but oh so delicious).
Lunch A bread substance with a cheese substance.
Or, a bread substance with a peanut butter substance. Also,
cookies, candy bars, pop tarts, you know, junk food. You'll
make it up as you go along.
Dinner Instant Betty Crocker seasoned mashed potatoes
almost every night, made with powdered milk. In addition,
mac and cheese or Liptons or instant white or brown rice
or lentils with some sort of seasoning. The super-magical
secret to our success: Jello instant cheesecake every night
(1/2 packet made with powdered milk).
Hitch-hiking A shop-as-you-go resupply approach basically
requires more hitching. While many of the places on the "Jardine"
or "Craig" plans where you can get mailed food are
close to the trail, many of the stores we used are a little
further away. If you aren't comfortable hitching, use Ray's
resupply points. If you don't mind hitching, read on.
By the way, getting a ride doesnt always mean hitching.
One approach that works quite well is to simply ask someone
for a ride. This is not yogiing! Many of the places where
youll need a ride will also be places where there are
people with cars: trailheads, overlooks, highway passes, parks,
etc. Pick someone and ask. You might be surprised how infrequently
you are turned down, especially if you preface your proposition
with an introduction: "Hi, Im hiking from Mexico
to Canada on the PCT and I need to get into so-and-so to buy
some groceries. Would you happen to be heading that way?"
People are often thrilled to learn about your hike and hear
your stories. This is a great way to connect and allow others
to experience your journey vicariously. Some of our best people
experiences on the trail were during one of our hitches to
get groceries.
If you are a solo woman or anyone else leery of hitching,
this approach gives you a lot of control over the situation.
My personal feeling is that hitching from the trail into nearby
towns is relatively safe. But you must use your own judgement.
Dont be in such a hurry to get to town that you take
chances when your instincts are screaming, "CAUTION!"
One final tip for graciously refusing an offered ride. If
you get a bad feeling after someones already pulled
over, slap your forehead and say, "Oops, I left my camera
back at my last break. Thanks, anyway, but Ive got to
go get it." (Thanks to someone, somewhere for this suggestion.)
Definitions
So everyone knows generally what we mean when we describe
resupply possibilities.
Small store Ramen, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes,
cereal, powdered milk, oatmeal, cookies, crackers, candy
bars. Basically a camp store or convenience store: no specialty
items but enough to get you by for a couple of days if you're
not picky. Can be very useful for snacks and lunch stuff,
if you want to carry enough dinners and breakfasts. Usually
fairly expensive, but may still be cheaper than postage.
Medium-sized market Will have a complete selection
of items if not a lot of variety. You may, for example,
have to buy a large box of powdered milk, or settle for
"cheap" bagels. Prices lower than a "small
store," but higher than a large market or supermarket.
Large market There is a slight difference between
a large market and a supermarket, but for the purposes of
a thru-hiker, probably not a significant difference.
Supermarket Like the one near where you live, you
know?
Compact town The main services are within a half
mile radius.
Unless we note otherwise, every place we list with a store
is a place where we feel you could re-supply, based on our
explanations above.
A Little of This A Little of That
Unless we note otherwise, all the places we list also have
P.O.'s. This brings up an interesting hybrid approach which
works pretty well: you could mail some food -- like wonderful
home-dried tomato sauces and other goodies, but buy your everyday
food at the store. A combined approach like this would make
your logistics a lot simpler. You could mail very small, forwardable
packages with specialty items, but not 8 for $1 ramens that
you can buy anywhere; or cookies that are going to go funky
in your food boxes. You don't have to adopt an either/or approach.
But it definitely doesn't make sense to us to mail elbow macaroni
first class across the country. (A useful tip: if youre
going to mail food that came in a store wrapper, leave it
in the store wrapper until you receive it. Store wrappers
keep food fresher than food thats been transferred into
ziplocs.)
A note about mailing: Remember, if you mail something first
class (priority) and don't open it, you can forward it for
free. Also, you can mail very large, heavy boxes very inexpensively
from one trail town to the next 4th class (parcel post) very
inexpensively ($3-5 for a 20 lb. box), and you're unlikely
to beat it there walking. Think about using a drift box for
food extras, especially if you think you might actually eat
the food later. Also remember: you can buy money orders with
your credit card at most P.O.'s and then use the money order
to buy food if the store doesn't take credit cards.
The Nuts and Bolts
Note: I'm not trying to re-write the available town guide
here (in fact I don't even have a copy of it in front of me
right now). This is not an exhaustive listing of the services
available, only a few highlights, especially as they relate
to a shop-as-you-go resupply strategy and a few other things
that my addled brain can remember. I would suggest buying
the PCT Town Guide available through the PCTA. It is a good
start toward an AT-quality town guide.
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|
Campo to Mt. Laguna - 43 miles |
|
- Walk to Mt. Laguna (<1/2 mile): Small
store, motel, restaurant, pay phone, not sure about
laundromat (but hell, you've only been out 2-3 days,
whadya need a laundromat for?) The Laguna Campground
(map A8 bottom right) has coin showers. Ask for directions
to there from the store. There's a back way.
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| Mt.
Laguna to Highway 78 - 35 miles |
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- Hitch to Julian (about 13 miles): Medium-sized
market, pricey hotels (go ahead, splurge - you deserve
it), good restaurants (Mamas Café or Romano's), hardware
store with camping supplies, small outfitter, NO laundromat.
You can catch a bus to Julian from where the trail
crosses Highway 78. There's a link to the service
in one of the digests. I think it goes 3-4 times a
week at about 8:00 a.m. Compact town, except for P.O.,
which is still pretty close.
- Hitch to Borrego Springs (about 15 miles):
Large market, reasonable hotels, restaurants, laundromat,
shops, drug store, ATMs. It is very hot here! Julian
is much cooler. Good compact trail town, except for
the heat. The bus also serves Borrego Springs. Borrego
Springs can also be accessed from S22 at the 102-mile
(from the Mexican Border) mark via a 15-mile hitch.
Notes: the one
drawback of resupplying via Highway 178 is that you'll
have a heavier pack for the San Felipe traverse. The
good thing about resupplying here is that you can solve
the Scissors Crossing water dilemma.
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|
Highway 78 to Idyllwild - 102 miles |
|
- Walk/hitch to Idyllwild (2.5 mile hike, then
1.5 mile hitch or walk): This is a well-described,
compact resupply town with a medium-sized market as
well as a specialty food store with some very interesting
and enticing foodstuffs that will appeal to backpackers.
Take advantage of the hiker/biker sites at the very
nearby state campground if you're on a limited budget.
All the usual amenities.
Notes: There
are three ways to shorten this leg: hitch to Borrego
Springs at S22 (shortens leg 24 miles, but 15 mile hitch);
re-supply by mail at Warner Springs P.O., which has
no supplies except maybe a few candy bars and a good
burger at the clubhouse (shortens leg 33 miles, but
1.3 mile detour); or re-supply at Anza via Pines-to-Palms
Highway and Highway 371 (shortens leg 52 miles, but
6 mile hitch). I don't have any info on Anza other than
what's in the guidebook or has been posted to the PCT-list.
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| Idyllwild
to Big Bear City - 87 miles |
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- Hitch to Big Bear City (about 5 miles): Hitch
from the PCT's crossing of Highway 18 at mile 55.4
of Section C. Don't bother with Van Dusen Canyon Road:
it gets much less traffic. Otherwise, this is also
a well-described resupply with a small-medium-sized
market in Big Bear City near the P.O., or a supermarket
available nearby (1-2 miles depending upon where you
stay) on the bus line.
Notes: There
are ways to shorten this leg, but really no need and
they're probably not worth it. Don't pass up the South
Fork Mission Creek Hostel if it's still in operation
when you go by. You won't regret stopping there.
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Big
Bear City to Wrightwood
- 104 miles (via the hitchable route)
- 98 miles (via the Acorn Canyon Trail) |
|
- Walk to Wrightwood (3.5 miles via the Acorn Canyon
Trail)
- Hitch to Wrightwood (7-8 miles via the Angeles
Crest Highway 2): Compact town with medium-sized
market, but no laundromat. The Pines Hotel (I think
that's its name) allowed thru-hikers to use their
laundry facilities and were pretty reasonable to boot.
There are some host families in Wrightwood. Personally,
I'd hitch to town from Highway 2 (even though that
gives you a longer leg from BBC) and save yourself
the climb back up the Acorn Canyon Trail with a full
pack.
Notes: There
are ways to shorten this leg but I don't have much info
on them other than the Summit Valley Store (right off
the trail before Cedar Springs Dam; has snacks, pastries
and maybe a few dinner items: you could probably get
enough here to get by to Wrightwood), and the new McDonalds
at Cajon Pass (load up your food bag with Egg McMuffins!).
You could actually hitch to Wrightwood fairly easily
from Cajon Pass, but then you'd have a full pack on
your looong climb up into the San Gabriels.
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Wrightwood to Agua Dulce - 84
or 90 miles
(depending on how you went to
Wrightwood) |
|
- Walk right through Agua Dulce: Small town
without lodging, or a laundromat, but with one host
family who is on a mission to put up every single
thru-hiker that comes through town and do their
laundry. Don't worry: someone will point you in their
direction.
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|
Agua Dulce to Tehachapi/Mojave - 100 miles
(to Tehachapi-Willow Springs Road) |
|
- Hitch to Tehachapi (9.4 miles): Tons of services,
but very spread out. A much prettier town than Mojave.
They moved their P.O. from a convenient downtown location
to a location about 1.5 miles out of town, near the
site of a proposed planned community. Fascists!
- Hitch to Mojave (12 miles): Not a pretty
town and much hotter than Tehachapi, but somewhat
more convenient and compact than Tehachapi. White's
Motel will shuttle back to the trail. They're pretty
centrally located, too.
Notes: Both towns
can also be reached via Highway 58, 8 miles further
on, but it is a limited access highway and harder to
hitch.
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Tehachapi/Mojave to Walker Pass -
92 miles
OR
Tehachapi/Mojave to Kennedy Meadows - 143
miles |
|
- Hitch to Onyx/Kernville/Lake Isabella (17.6 miles
to Onyx; public transit to Kernville and Lake Isabella):
The small store at Onyx could probably get you by
the 51 miles to Kennedy Meadows. But if you get there
and just can't resupply, take the bus to Kernville
(which runs a few times/day). Kernville is full service
(medium to large market), compact and scenic. Lake
Isabella is full-service (supermarket), but quite
spread out. You could do some rafting in the area
if you're looking to take a lay-over. The public transit
is excellent and will take you just about anywhere
between Onyx and Bakersfield. Busses don't run on
Sundays.
- Walk to Kennedy Meadows Store (about a mile):
You cannot reasonably expect to resupply out of this
store for the longish legs ahead. But you might be
surprised how easy it is to get a ride to Ridgecrest
from here. I wouldn't go, though, unless it were a
round-trip ride.
Notes: However, here's how you can avoid
needing to resupply at KM (if you want): Resupply at
Kernville with enough food to get from Walker Pass to
Trail Pass (91 miles). Be sure to account for any time
you might spend loitering at KM, though between the
trail angels who frequent the place and the General
Store, you could probably get by okay. From Trail Pass,
hike to Horseshoe Meadows Road (2.1 miles) and then
hitch to resupply in Lone Pine (medium-sized market).
The potential glitch in this approach is that at times
there apparently isn't a lot of traffic on this road
and it's a long walk to where the road intersects the
Whitney Portal Road, where there is lots of traffic.
The total distance from the trailhead to Lone Pine is
22.8 miles. I think it's about 17 miles to the Whitney
Portal Road.
Here's another approach:
You could resupply in Kernville with enough food to
get from Walker Pass to Whitney Portal (128 total miles
to trailhead, not including side-trip of 1.8 miles each
way to the summit of Whitney). From the Whitney Portal
trailhead, it should be an easy hitch to Lone Pine.
When you return to the trail, you could consider returning
via Horseshoe Meadows Road and Cottonwood Pass, to avoid
climbing back over 13,100%' with fully loaded food bags.
You will re-hike a fairly level 16.5 miles (~1500' of
climbing over those 16.5 miles), but it might be worth
it to avoid the ~4000' of climbing over 8.7 miles to
return to the trail via Whitney Portal (the net gain
from Horseshoe Meadows Road TH to Cottonwood Pass is
~1300'; the net gain from Whitney Portal to Trail Crest
is ~5300'). Your choice: walk extra miles with a full
pack or climb extra elevation (at high elevations) with
a full pack.
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Kennedy Meadows to Independence/Lone Pine -
95 miles
(via Kearsarge Pass to Onion
Valley TH):
OR
Kennedy Meadows to Vermilion Valley Resort -
162 miles
(assuming you take the boat) |
|
- Walk and hitch to Independence (9 mile walk;
15 mile hitch to Independence): Small to medium-sized
markets. Compact. Nice city park and nearby camping.
- Walk and hitch to Lone Pine (same as above,
except additional 10 mile hitch to Lone Pine): described
above.
- Walk or ride boat to V.V.R. (described in
guidebook)
Notes: If you
did resupply at KM, these are your next logical options.
If you use V.V.R., I assume you're going to have to
do a maildrop, though I haven't been there so I don't
know what's available to purchase.
|
Independence/Lone Pine to Red's Meadow/Mammoth Lakes
- 124 miles
(via Kearsarge Pass)
OR
Independence/Lone Pine to V.V.R - 95
miles (via Kearsarge Pass) |
|
- Walk or ride boat to V.V.R (described in
guidebook)
- Walk to Red's Meadow Resort (1/2 mile): small
store - you could get by to Tuolumne Meadows.
- Walk to Red's Meadow then take public transit/hitch
to Mammoth Lakes (~12 miles total): The bus only
runs to Mammoth Mountain Resort in the summertime
so you have to hitch the remainder of the way (about
4-5 miles) to town. The town of Mammoth Lakes is full-service
if a little spread out. A little spendy for hotel
rooms, too, but this is one place you might feel like
it's worth it, especially if you just came all the
way from Kearsarge Pass.
|
V.V.R. to Tuolumne Meadows - 65 miles
OR
Red's Meadow to Tuolumne Meadows - 36 miles |
|
- Walk right through Tuolumne Meadows: Though
none of the services here were open in '98 when we
hiked through, I understand the store here is quite
adequate. I've heard they've actually had bears break
in to the P.O. and steal hiker boxes, though. Hah!
We hitched to Lee Vining (~20 miles) to the small
store there to get enough to get us to Sonora Pass.
Another option is to hitch or take the bus down to
Yosemite Valley. Don't know much about that, either.
|
| Tuolumne
Meadows to Sonora Pass/Bridgeport - 76 miles |
|
- Hitch to Bridgeport from Sonora Pass (33 miles):
Medium-sized, but expensive store. Expensive motels.
Some stealth camping available on outskirts of town
-- or you could just get yourself arrested for the
night. Laundromat with coin showers. Despite its length,
this wasn't a difficult hitch.
Notes: This is
a rather short leg, with a long hitch to resupply. We
did it this way because we had heard (and it turned
out to be true, especially in '98) that this was a very
strenuous leg, too. It would be nice to know what kind
of provisions are available west down Highway 108 at
Kennedy Meadows Resort or via Ebbetts Pass to Lake Alpine
Lodge or Markleeville. Either of these options via Ebbetts
Pass would give you a 107-mile leg. I've been to Markleeville,
but just can't remember if there's a passable grocery
store there. Carson Pass, it seems to me, is too close
to Echo Lake to be of much use.
|
| Sonora
Pass to Echo Lake Resort - 76 miles |
|
- Walk right through Echo Lake Resort: A small
store, with enough to get by on if you're going to
resupply again at Tahoe City or Tahoma. I don't think
I'd try to get all the way to Sierra City on what's
available here though. Call from here (the number
is posted) if you're going to stay at the aforementioned
hotel in South Lake.
Notes: You save
2.5 miles if you just hitch to Meyers or South Lake
Tahoe from Echo Summit, though the guidebook says it's
difficult (?). I'm drawing a complete blank about what,
if anything, is in Meyers, but South Lake has everything,
including supermarkets and public transit (useful since
it is a bit spread out). The little branch P.O. nearby
won't (sometimes) hold General Delivery packages, making
you figure out how to get to the Main Branch a couple
of miles away. The Town Guide has info on the one motel
proprietor in South Lake that caters to thru-hikers,
including pick-ups and drop-offs at Echo Lake Resort
once a day. He will hold packages.
|
Echo Lake Resort to Tahoma - 32 miles
(via Barker Pass/Forest Route 3)
OR
Echo Lake Resort to Tahoe City - 32 miles
(via Barker Pass)
OR
Echo Lake Resort to Tahoe City - 53 miles
(via Granite Chief Trail)
OR
Echo Lake Resort to Donner Pass - 61 miles |
|
- Hitch to Tahoma (~6 miles): Has a small store,
laundromat, pizzeria, lodging. You can catch a bus
from here to Tahoe City (10 miles north) several times
a day. Tahoe City has supermarkets, a great outfitter,
cool shops and places to eat and drink. One word of
caution: Forest Route 3 may not be open to Barker
Pass in big snow years, though there will be lots
of runners and bikers using the closed portion. This
is probably not a concern in most years. When open,
the road is well-traveled.
- Hitch/take public transit to Tahoe City (12 miles):
see above.
- Hike via the Granite Chief Trail to Squaw Valley
and then hitch to Tahoe City (3.8 miles walking; a
few miles hitch): I'm not familiar with the services
available at Squaw's base area, but some are mentioned
in the guidebook (page 343).
- Hitch to Donner Trail Grocery from Donner Pass
(not Summit) (3.2 miles): I only know what I read
in the guidebook (page 328). I've heard about "Pooh's
Corner," some folks nearby that host hikers.
|
| Barker
Pass/Tahoe City to Sierra City - 70 miles
(my preferred option) |
|
- Walk or hitch to Sierra City (about a mile from
each of two different spots): Small store. Not
much else. Not really worth hitching to Downieville
unless you just can't find enough to eat at the Sierra
City store. Downieville does have a slightly larger
store and expensive pay showers and an ATM.
|
| Sierra
City to Quincy - 73 miles |
|
- Hitch to Quincy via Bucks Lake Road (~10 miles):
This busy road will take you to full-service Quincy,
with supermarkets, laundromat, thrift store, health
clinic. It's a nice little town and fairly compact.
|
| Quincy
to Chester - 56 miles |
|
- Hitch to Chester via Highway 36 (8 miles):
This, too, is a busy road and will take you to full-service
Chester, with a supermarket, laundromat, etc. Rooms
in town are a little expensive for what you get.
|
| Chester
to Burney - 81 or 87 miles (depending
on route into Burney) |
|
- Hitch to Burney via Highway 299 or Highway 89
(~7 miles either way): These two busy roads will
take you to Burney, an excellent resupply town. Very
compact with large market, P.O., laundromat, hotels,
etc. You can easily camp at the Burney Falls S.P.
PCT campground, then in the morning, hitch into town
and be back to the trail in 2 hours.
|
| Burney
to Dunsmuir - 84 miles (assuming from Burney
Falls SP) |
|
- Hitch/walk to Dunsmuir (~4 miles): Another
excellent resupply town. You can (now) legally walk
along the railroad tracks to the edge of town and
then hitch or walk the remainder of the way into town.
We hitched at the bottom of the on-ramp and got the
first ride. The Travelodge has great deals, there's
a medium-sized market, movie theater, laundromat,
etc.
|
| Dunsmuir
to Etna - 100 miles |
|
- Hitch to Etna (~10 miles): Etna Summit doesn't
have much traffic, but most of it will stop to pick
you up: it's almost all locals. The town of Etna is
great. An excellent, cheap, medium-sized market, as
well as a laundromat, and a hiker-friendly bed &
breakfast: Bradley's Alderbrook Manor, on the edge
of town as you're coming into town. She and the town's
other hotel's proprietor will shuttle back to the
trail.
|
|
Etna to Ashland, OR - 122 miles |
|
- Hitch to Ashland, OR via I-5 (13 miles):
Hitching on Interstates in Oregon is legal. Ashland
is a large college town and a cool place to lay-over.
It has everything you might need, though it is a little
spread out. There is public transit and you can catch
free theatrical performances each evening in the commons
area downtown. Just ask around for details. The health
food coop in town is an excellent place to resupply
and is closer to the hostel than the supermarkets
are.
Notes: Most people
use Seiad Valley (57 miles into this leg), which has
a small store you could barely resupply out of and the
world famous Pancake Challenge at the café. We witnessed
only the fourth person to win the Pancake Challenge
in the last 14 years: another thru-hiker, Josh Dhasalear.
Seiad Valley remains an option - hell, you walk right
through it - but if you don't mind a 122-mile leg, just
plan on resupplying at Ashland.
|
Ashland,
OR to Crater Lake National Park - 103 miles
OR
Ashland, OR to Diamond Lake Resort - 126 miles
(Remember these are easy Oregon miles) |
|
- Hike to Mazama Campground Camp Store at Crater
Lake National Park (< 1 mile): The small camp
store could be used for resupply if you don' set your
sights too high. If you do a mailed resupply to Crater
Lake, be certain to send your parcel UPS and be sure
to check at Mazama Village for your package before
you continue up to the rim to Crater Lake Lodge. There
has been some confusion in the past about where UPS
parcels get left. They're supposed to be left at Mazama
Village.
- Hitch to Diamond Lake Resort via Highway 138
(~ 6 miles): This is a beautiful place, with a
small store, café, laundromat and even canoes and
paddle boats for rent. Camping nearby or get a room.
Going here is one way to break up that long waterless
stretch from Crater Lake Lodge to Thielsen Creek.
|
Crater
Lake Rim Village to Sisters - 154 miles (via
Highway 242)
OR
Diamond Lake to Sisters - 137 miles |
|
- Hitch to Sisters (15 miles): Sisters is a
beautiful town with everything a thru-hiker could
want, except cheap hotel rooms. There is camping in
a town park, but no showers. Everything is close together
except for the supermarket, which still isn't far.
Go to Sisters and make some friends; then ask your
new friends if you can take a shower! Better yet,
go to Sisters with some friends and split the cost
of a room. Don't miss the Gallery Restaurant - the
locals' favorite.
Notes: It is
possible to shorten this leg by doing an intermediate
resupply at Shelter Cove Resort near Cascade Summit
(77 miles from Sisters), and/or Elk Lake Resort (31
miles from Sisters). I didn't visit either of these
places, so I can't say whether you could buy enough
to get you by. I suspect that at best these stores would
fall into the category of small. Also, at Highway 58
at Willamette Pass Ski Area (about half-way through
this leg and 300 yards from the PCT), there is a pizzeria/snack
bar open during summer months. They sell pastries, bagels,
candy bars and of course, pizza. Eat one there, take
one to go and consider yourself resupplied! Keep in
mind that this is pretty fast, easy hiking through here.
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| Sisters
to Cascade Locks - 166 miles |
|
- Hike right through Cascade Locks: Almost
a perfect trail town: medium-size market, pay showers,
laundromat, cheap or free camping along the Columbia
River. Cheap waffle cones. This town actually appreciates
stinky, smelly thru-hikers. Go figure.
Notes: Again, there are some intermediate resupply
opportunities if you want to shorten this leg, including:
Olallie Lake Resort, 63 miles into the leg and right
on the trail. You can get by at their small store for
a few days, but be prepared to spend a little. 113 miles
from Sisters, where the trail crosses Highway 35, you
can hitch 6 miles west to Government Camp, which has
what the guidebook calls a "moderately well-stocked
store." I've never been there so can't confirm,
but it sounds good to me. Next time, I'll probably go
to Government Camp and then do a short leg to Cascade
Locks. Can't remember why we didn't do so this time.
Oh yeah, we were flying and with the few things we picked
up at Ollalie, didn't need to. Traditionally, hikers
mail boxes to Timberline Lodge, 118 miles into this
leg and 48 miles from Cascade Locks. There will be a
charge of $2.00 for each box and letter. All mail must
be picked up by October 15 unless contact lodge to hold
longer. UPS mail can not be returned to sender.
|
| Cascade
Locks to White Pass - 148 miles |
|
- Hike to Kracker Barrel Grocery (< 3/4 mile):
You could actually resupply for the next leg out of
this store, but it would be spendy. The condo complex
next door rents reasonable little skier efficiencies,
which are often set up for large groups. They have
a pool and a pay phone. The store has a coin laundry.
- Hitch to Packwood (<20 miles): A medium-sized
market, and the usuals.
Notes: This is one place along the trail
where there are very few options, but there are at least
two: You could shorten the leg by 34 miles by hitching
back down fairly busy Wind River Road to Carson (about
8 miles) and if you couldn't get enough groceries there,
continue on a few miles to Stevenson, where you could
definitely resupply. (For north-bounders, there will
be a fair amount of traffic on the roads in this region
as hunting season will have begun.) One advantage to
this approach, aside from giving you just a 114 mile
leg to White Pass, is that you'll carry a light pack
for the grueling, uninspiring 34 miles from Cascade
Locks to Wind River Road.
You could also hitch
down fairly busy Road 23 before entering the Mt. Adams
Wilderness (83 miles into this leg) to the town of Trout
Lake. This would be about a 20 mile hitch and the supplies
in Trout Lake would be fairly limited, but this may
be worth checking in to.
|
| White
Pass to Snoqualmie Pass - 99 miles |
|
- Hike to the convenience store (<1/2 mile):
Another one of those "you could get by"
situations. If you're tired of just getting by:
- Hitch to Cle Elum (34 miles): Supermarkets
and everything else. A lot of the folks who work in
the Snoqualmie Pass area live in Cle Elum. Even though
you can't hitch on the Interstate, getting a ride
shouldn't be too difficult.
- Hitch to North Bend (23 miles): Same situation
as above. Or if you're really wanting a dose of city
life:
- Hitch or ride the Dog to Seattle (54 miles):
This is done more often than you can imagine.
|
| Snoqualmie
Pass to Stevens Pass - 75 miles |
|
- Hitch to Skykomish (15 miles): Friendly town,
but small and lacks decent grocery store. Nevertheless,
most thru-hikers go here.
- Hitch to Leavenworth (34 miles): Where I
live! Has two medium-sized markets and a health food
store, tons of lodging and restaurants and it's quite
compact. We're slowly converting everyone in town
into a fan of thru-hikers. You can even take Trailways
back and forth from Stevens Pass. You can also ride
the free bus from here another 20 miles down valley
to the large city of Wenatchee, which has everything.
It also rains less in Leavenworth than Skykomish,
which might be a big deal depending upon when you
arrive. I will be hosting hikers (if I'm around) and
I'll post notice at the pay phone at Stevens Pass.
If you're having trouble when you get to Stevens Pass
(say with bad weather) be aware that there are Pass
employees that live up there and will assist you.
Don't be afraid to go knock on some doors and ask
for help. They are generally aware of the trail and
thru-hikers.
|
| Stevens
Pass to Stehekin - 97 miles |
|
- Take the bus to Stehekin (~10 miles): Believe
it or not, we bought enough food at the tiny store
and the (AWESOME!) bakery to get us to the Canadian
border. But this is one place (you didn't think I'd
say it, did you) that you might seriously want to
consider mailing yourself a box (like from Leavenworth).
|
| Stevens
Pass to Rainy Pass - 117 miles (optional) |
|
- Hitch to Winthrop (~30 miles): Winthrop has
a medium-sized market and the typical array of amenities.
A long hitch, but probably not difficult.
|
| Stehekin
or Rainy Pass to THE BORDER: (the rest of the miles) |
Epilogue
See, you really can go from Mexico to Canada without mailing
yourself a single food box. You didn't think it could be done,
did you?
Mailed Resupply From the Trail
Here's a little information about a hybrid alternative.
Instead of preparing all your maildrops in advance of your
hike, why not carefully choose some strategic places you want
to mail to and then prepare your maildrops for those locations
during a layover in a good-sized town prior to those places.
For example, if you wanted to maildrop to some places in
Oregon, why not take a day and box a bunch of food up in Ashland,
where you can get anything you want. Then you could mail them
parcel post and save yourself a bundle. (Don't forget to UPS
to Crater Lake, though).
Same goes for Washington. The store at Cascade Locks isn't
huge, but it's good-sized. You could do your Washington resupplies
from there.
One advantage to this approach is that if for some reason
you are forced to get off the trail, you won't have boxes
of hiking food to deal with. Also, if your tastes change,
you can vary your menu. Imagine getting sick and tired of
all those curry lentil dinners you so carefully dehydrated
over several months this winter.
A Final Request
If you have any comments or suggestions, please email me. I would like to include further
ideas along these lines or other "dont-miss"
amenities in this document.
Chris and Jenelle reside in
Leavenworth, Washington, where, when not hiking, they work
for the Forest Service seasonally. You can read more of their
journals and view other information about their hike at
http://www.skydivenet.com/pcthike/. You can email them
by clicking here.
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